April 9 & 11, 2015

Warning: The following post contains graphic photos and deals with disturbing content related to atrocities that occurred during the Khmer Rouge regime in Cambodia where millions were killed in a place more commonly known as 'The Killing Fields.'

Every now and again we have to deal with uncomfortable subjects. It's okay, it's a part of life. Every tour can't be on the scale of Machu Picchu or a palace or a more simple lovely botanical garden. Every now and again we have to face the harsh reality of history.

I have to admit that I had limited knowledge of Cambodia's past. I did not have any interest in history classes and my teachers did not do much to change my perspective. I rarely watched war films and I had never seen the movie The Killing Fields until a couple of weeks ago. I did know, however, that it was important for my children and me to learn about these awful events. We had warned the children that this would be a disturbing outing, but we felt it would be a better learning experience than any book or movie could provide.

Our journey to learn more about the radical communist group called the Khmer Rouge began at Tuol Sleng Prison, now a genocide museum in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Originally, this was a secondary school which was transformed on April 17, 1975 by Pol Pot's regime into a prison called S.21 (Security Office 21).

Pol Pot was the leader of the Khmer Rouge. He was a socialist revolutionary from 1963-1997. He became the leader of Cambodia when the Khmer Rouge captured the city of Phnom Penh on April 17, 1975. This day was to become 'year zero' as Pol Pot transformed Cambodia. Residents of Phnom Penh, the capital city, were told to leave for three days because the Americans were bombing. They were also told not to take anything with them.

Pol Pot was interested in a radical form of agrarian socialism and imposed his ideas through a totalitarian dictatorship. He forced those living in urban settings to move to the countryside to work in collective farms. He also forced other labor projects such as cutting cloth and sewing uniforms. Everyone was to wear black uniforms that resembled pajamas. Pol Pot was interested in peasant communities, so doctors, lawyers, teachers and other educated individuals were undesired and executed. The Khmer Rouge had a saying, "To keep you is no benefit. To destroy you is no loss."

Executions, forced labor projects, malnutrition and poor medical care caused the death of 25% of Cambodia's population during the four years in which Pol Pot's policies were enforced.

During our tour, we were not allowed to take pictures in the cells (former classrooms) on the first floor. Most of the cell walls were taken down, but you could still see the outline of the tiny rooms where prisoners were kept and chained to the wall. Blood stains were still visible on the floor. Photos of the victims were displayed throughout the classrooms.

Our guide provided us with additional information on how the prison functioned. This was basically a place where common people were tortured in order to obtain confessions. I guess the Khmer Rouge would use these confessions of conspiracies as part of their reasoning for the executions. The torturers were commoners too, but it was a 'kill or be killed' mentality and they carried out orders to save themselves. Many prisoners never knew anything about the CIA or KGB, but they would eventually say they were spies in order to end the torture. Once a confession was obtained, the prisoner would be taken away at night and transported 15 kilometers away to the Killing Fields.

Michael and Maeve walking by the 'classrooms'

Memorial burial site at S.21 for 12 unknown victims.

As our tour was finishing, we met a man named Chum Mey. He shows up regularly to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. He wrote a biography that was published in 2012. This book is currently his main source of income and he sells signed copies for $10. He was one of seven survivors of this prison and only two are alive today. His story begins by saying he could have been killed a thousand times in his life. It is baffling how he has survived every awful event from the French control in his early life to the Khmer Rouge regime. He mainly survived because his skills as a mechanic were needed. Eventually he was to be executed, but he was able to escape just after he witnessed his wife's execution and the death of one of his children. He is happy to be alive and shares his story in the hopes that nothing like this ever happens again.

I purchased an autographed book by Chum Mey, one of the seven survivors of S.21.

We waited another day before visiting the Killing Fields. We arranged for a tuk tuk to take us there. It was about a 30 minute ride which took us through Phnom Penh and several kilometers past.

There are many Killing Fields throughout Cambodia. The one outside of Phnom Penh has the largest memorial site. The entrance fee includes an audio guide so you can tour the grounds at your own pace.

Prisoners were brought here to be killed. Some dug their own graves and were buried alive. Some were beat to death. Not many were shot since bullets were not to be wasted.

At one point more prisoners were brought in that could be disposed of in one night. Some were then put in a detention center to await their fate the next day. The detention center was dismantled in 1979.

Informational sign describing the detention center where those arrested waited to be killed

Liam and Michael listening to audio tour

We toured the property. We examined the mass grave sites and the pictures displayed and we listened to the horrible recorded stories.

Picture on site of the remains of victims discovered

A Cambodian boy begging on the other side of the fence

Some of the clothes (including children's clothing) that remained after the evacuation

Over time the land throughout this area has erroded and clothing and bones of the victims surface. The signs along the paths reminded us not to step on bones. It was incredibly disturbing to walk and see these haunting remnants along the path as if the victims were demanding not to be forgotten.

Clothing and bones continue to come up from the dirt along the path

Visitors leave behind friendship bracelets

The tree where a speaker would hang and play music to drown out the noise from victims

The large monument honoring the victims of the Killing Fields is at the end of the tour. Many of the skulls and bones were studied and stored here. They are organized and displayed according to gender, age and trauma.

Skulls categorized by injury with colored stickers

The Killing Fields represent another sad chapter in our world's history. Unfortunately this sort of thing continues. We hope the souls of these traumatic events have found peace.